Zetec Front Mount Alternator Kit For VanDiemen

This is the exact alternator set up that we use on the Metrik cars, and this kit fits it to the VanDiemen chassis. It has proven reliable and It Is the same alternator used
on the VD axle drive type. As you can see the Pulleys are tooth drive. The initial installation needs to be done with the engine out of the car. The one engine bolt will
not come all the way out due to a frame tube. That bolt gets replaced with a 10 mm stud. Once you have done that, the entire mechanism can be removed with the
rearward joint in order to remove the alternator. It does necessitate using a new engine bay leg. The new engine bay leg is clocked outward slightly to clear the
alternator ear. The original Axle drive alternator unit needs to be re-clocked in the housing. The unit is disassembled and the rear housing is rotated. This positions
the electrical stud on the bottom where it is easily accessible. It’s a pretty simple straightforward installation. The complete kit consists of a new alternator (that is
correctly clocked) (Race Proven mfg), an aluminum alternator pulley, a aluminum crank pulley , a crank pulley spacer that has the key way for the crankshaft, a
longer crank bolt, the keyway, the belt, the belt adjuster banjo bolt, the mounting bracket, a 10 mm stud and the new engine bay leg.

Complete Kit $875          Less Alternator: $585          Less Alternator & Leg: $385

1- remove the bolt in the front engine timing belt cover (upper right hand bolt). You will
have to have the engine out of the car to remove the original bolt as a frame tube is in the
way . Replace that bolt with the 10 mm stud provided in the kit. Make sure that the stud is
fully inserted and use a drop of Loctite to ensure that it cannot come loose. Changing the
bolt to the stud allows you to be able to remove the bracket that carries the alternator with
out removing the engine.

2- Remove the crankshaft bolt securing the timing belt pulley. Install the alternator
pulley by first inserting the key into the spacer, then slide the spacer with that key into the
crankshaft. Make sure that you insert the spacer so that part of the key is facing towards the
alternator pulley so that it will engage it. A portion of the key will engage the crankshaft
pulley that drives the alternator. Use the longer bolt supplied in the kit, this makes up for the
difference in the extra space needed for the alternator pulley. Use the original washer on
the new bolt and torque the bolt.

3- Install the alternator pulley. If you received the alternator from us in the kit, the
alternator pulley is already installed. If you have an alternator that you need to install the
pulley on, you will need a special tool. The alternator pulley is threaded and needs to be
screwed on to the alternator shaft. The threads not only help seat the Pulley but act as a key
to ensure that it does not turn on the shaft. You need to be able to hold the alternator shaft
from turning while turning the alternator pulley into place. The special tool allows you to do
this. Tighten the pulley firmly onto the shaft. It’s important that the alternator pulley be
seated against the bearing of the alternator shaft. If it has run-out, it is not seated. To install
the retainer nut on the alternator pulley, it’s easiest to use a 7/8” spark plug socket and a
quarter drive ratchet with an extension and a 10 mm socket on the end. You can grab the
spark plug socket with a combination wrench , and use the quarter drive socket wrench
with an extension to hold or turn the alternator shaft. Of course you have to put the extension
through the socket and attach the socket wrench and 10 mm socket prior to doing this
operation. The ear on the alternator may have 8mm or 10 mm threads. If the alternator was
on an axle drive set up, those threads may have been drilled out to accommodate a bolt. In
that case you will either have to tap it for 8mm or 10 mm, or use a helicoil or timesert if the
hole is too big. You can use a hex head bolt or Allen head bolt on the ear that bolts to the
engine. Due to the limited space with the engine installed it’s easier to turn a hex head bolt
than work with the Allen bolt.

4- Install the alternator and bracket together. Lightly tighten the bolt at the ear of the
alternator that secures it to the engine timing belt housing.(make sure the bracket is not
binding the stud and keeping everything from bolting up square) Put a straightedge on the
face of the alternator pulley down to the crankshaft pulley face. They should be reasonably
in line with each other. If the pulleys are more than 1/8” off of the same plane (face to face),
you will need to Shim one or the other. Engine castings tend to vary quite a bit, make sure
you get this right or the belt will come off. Regardless, you will need to Shim the bracket on
the stud to the engine, that area always needs a shim washer.

5- Adjust the belt. Snug up the bolt and nut that secure the bracket to the engine and the
Allen bolt that attaches the alternator ear to the adjuster banjo rod. Loosen all three
fasteners slightly, Adjust the banjo rod on the alternator with the jam nuts until you have an
easy quarter of a twist on the belt. Tighten everything up securely, double check the belt for
a quarter twist.

6- Trial fit the engine into the car. The new engine Bay leg, on the right-hand side needs
to be used. It is clocked slightly outward. The stock VD leg will hit the alternator. Measure the
length of the stock leg that you removed from the car, check the length against the new leg
that you’re going to install. Adjust your Shim package accordingly. The alternator pulley will
be very close to the one frame tube. For a little extra clearance you may want to add .050” / .
065” to your Shim package. If you do that, make sure that you do it uniformly at all
necessary points, so as not to change any chassis squareness, or add preload or tension.
(Big time important).

The coolant tube under the injection manifold will need to be altered. Cut the rearward elbow off and shorten the tube by 6.5″ from the centerline of the elbow.
Weld the elbow back on or use a 90 degree hose and route the pipe as shown. If you use a
hose, make sure to bead the tube end so it can not slip off. You will also have to extend the
lower tube that connects to the rad. Take your time and watch your oil line connections to
ensure there is no interference. (see photos).

Note: there are a few differences between Zetec engines. The crankshaft belt drive pulley
bore on some engines is smaller than on others. It will either be 1.1 inches/28 mm, or
1.375 inches/35 mm. If you have the larger crankshaft pulley from us it can be machined
down to the smaller diameter. To do this insert a piece of half-inch round rod stock in the
Pulley bore. Use the two short set screws that were supplied with the kit, that will hold it
onto the shaft. Now you can grab the shaft in a lathe chuck and machine the OD down to
the smaller diameter.
The crankshaft keyway and spacer are the same for either configuration.

The alternator inboard ear that bolts to the engine and bracket may need to be trimmed
slightly at the radius where the engine casting corner interferes with the ear.
See the photograph.

If you are using your old axle drive alternator, you will need to re-clock the alternator housing so that the electric stud is facing down at six o’clock.

This necessitates disassembling the unit completely as the stator needs to be rotated in the housing to keep the wire leads aligned.

This is done by removing the rear cover, then remove all the exposed components (make note of the screw lengths and where they came from) carefully uncoil the 4 wires that come up from the stator and straighten them out so that the component can be lifted off.

Remove the 2 screws and the 2 nuts that hold the housing halves together.

Split the housing and remove the shaft assembly.

Remove the 2 studs that retain the stator.

Remove the stator by gently heating the housing with a propane torch, being careful not to direct the flame at the internal wires.

Using a small screw driver, working back and forth between the 2 stud holes, the stator can be pried out . Take your time.

Clean everything well, straighten out the stator wires and put the stator in the freezer.

While the stator is chilling, mark the housing to index its NEW position.

When the stator is ‘really cold’, warm the housing and drop the stator into place. It should drop right in and seat.

Put everything back together in its NEW position. Use a little sensor safe RTV silicone on the rear housing cover to help dampen vibration.

Make sure to re-use the Nord-Lock washers and mate them properly.